Hi everyone. Welcome to this section where we will try to review some of the 3D printing technical issues related to the filament.
These issues are only droplet in the sea that you will experience in your 3D printing adventure. This would be the case with any printer that you would buy. 3D printing has very large community and a lot of information floating around. Don’t be afraid to search for the problem that you might be experiencing.
How to load filament
In order to load the filament you have to follow next steps:
1. You have to pre-heat the nozzle in one of two ways:
a) Turn the nozzle temp on from your preferred printing software or
b) through the LCD menu
2. In order to pre-heat using LCD menu please follow these steps:
Click => Prepare => Preheat => Preheat PLA => Preheat all
After that the nozzle and the bed will preheat to the set temperatures (the ones displayed in the top line of the LCD). Once the temperature is reached you can load the filament.
Loading process is shown in the image below.
Sometimes you might experience that the filament doesn’t want to go into the hole. In such a case make sure that the filament end has clean cut, make sure that the filament doesn’t curl – if needed straighten it out.
Filament is not coming out of the nozzle
If you experience issues with filament coming out of the nozzle, before troubleshooting make sure that the nozzle is pre-heated accordingly to the filament that you are using
Make sure that the filament is loaded correctly – on Exilis and the Modus you should be able to see from the side that the filament is sitting correctly in the thermal break
Try to push the filament through manually. See the steps above how to load filament.
If the filament is not coming out you might need to clean the nozzle. Please do not rush to take the hotend apart before you try the steps below.
To clean the nozzle you can use either drill bits that are suitable size for your nozzle or use a wire strand.
Make sure that the nozzle is preheated, push the drill bit into the nozzle and clean it out in an up and down fashion – just like it would be a file. never attempt to drill/clean the nozzle while it is cold. To maximise the cleaning affect try to push filament in while the drill bit is still in the nozzle. Once you applied gentle pressure pull out the drill bit. the filament should rush out with any debris that was stuck behind the drill bit.
If this method did not help you might need to replace the nozzle.
So you have cleaned the nozzle and tried to push some filament out and it was ok.
You experience that the filament is not coming out once you start to print. This is mostly caused by the nozzle being dragged on the top of the glass, i.e. the nozzle is too close to the surface.
In order to fix that issue you have to change the offset – the gap has to be increase. In order to do that you can either go through all offset process or you can try to change offset without autohome.
If you decided to do that you will have to experiment and try to find the right number. in order to do that simply change the offset from for instance -2.1mm to – -1.8mm. this will lift the nozzle higher.
Firstly make sure that you are not printing on the bare glass. There are a lot of methods that are suitable for the different material types. You just have to find one that you like the most.
If you experience an issue with the prints coming of the bed it might be due to couple reasons:
- The bed temperature is too low for the material type. To resolve that simply increase the temperature
- The nozzle distance from the bed is set incorrectly. Adjust the nozzle distance so that the filament gets slightly squashed onto the glass rather than being freely laid.
- Incorrect surface preparation is used. Our preferred method for the PLA is BluStik (or any other colour changing blue sticks). For ABS we recommend to use either build surfaces or the ABS juice. TPE like to be printed on the packing tape with cold bed. Feel free to read information on the Wiki pages on 3D printing. As mentioned before there are a lot of methods to make the prints stick.
ATTENTION: under no circumstances we recommend to use any air propellant based adhesive. They propellants are highly flammable and the dust particles tend to settle on the mechanical components. This might cause explosions (even though it would be extremely rare occasion) and the dusting could damage the mechanical components.
ABS has a high shrinkage ratio, thus it tends to warp a lot more than the other materials. Try to experiment with other material types.
If you can’t avoid and have to use ABS try to increase the printing temperature. Lower layer height help to decrease delamination as well.
If that doesn’t help you might need to invest in enclosure to help you to control the environment.
There might be few issues that would be causing that:
- once the print has started you might have set the temperature too low for the filament and it freezes. Make sure that the temperature is adequate.
- with some materials it is very important that you set the retraction correctly. if you have retraction that is too much for the filament it might freeze in the thermal break and would not be able to come out again. For direct drive extruders the correct retraction should be 1-1.5mm and for the Bowden type extruders it should be no more than 4mm. The retraction should be as minimal as possible in any case – it is required just to prevent the filament from oozing
- make sure that the extruder gear did not get loose. Remove the fan and heatsink and make sure that the cog is not loose.
If it is your first print and the test prints came out good double check that the filament size is properly set in your slicing software.
If you have installed Cura – it sets the default filament size to 2.85mm and that causes under extrusion of the filament